1. Heat the oven to 200 degrees. In an 8- or 10-inch skillet, heat 2 or 3 tablespoons of the oil or butter (enough to film the bottom of the pan nicely) over medium-high heat. Add the fish and cook, undisturbed, adjusting the heat so it really sizzles. Check after 4 or 5 minutes; it should be nicely browned. Season it, turn, season it again and cook another 3 minutes or longer, until a thin-bladed knife meets little resistance. Put the fish on a plate, with the more beautiful side up. (If you have a hard time deciding, excellent. Congrats.)

2. Put the plate in the oven and splash a little more oil and/or butter in the pan, along with the white wine, if you have it. When that’s reduced a bit, toss in the capers and boil until nearly dry. Pour that over the fish, squeeze a bit of lemon juice over that, garnish if you like and serve.